Day 3: The Streets of Chicago

The Great Hall at Chicago Union Station

This was going to be my last day in Chicago before heading west (and north, south and east!) so I wanted to see as much as I could in what little time I had left. With that in mind I headed over to Chicago Union Station, which has been featured in countless movies. This kinda exposed me a little to the less wealthy side of Chicago. Over the river and not so far away, pavements are broken, buildings like the monstrosity that was the US Post Office lie empty and dilapidated, and the general feeling is of one of life living on the fringes of society. I was really struck by how much the city had changed just by crossing the river. Leaving a more-or-less derelict Union Station behind, I headed south along Clinton Street all the way down to Roosevelt Street. At that rate, I’d had enough of east Chicago. The feelings of contentment I had experienced on the west side of the river just hours before had been replaced by feelings of anger and pity. I headed west, quietly.

Crossing the Chicago river over the acres of land dedicated to the railway yard, I felt the change of environment all over. It really is a tale of two cities. On the western side; money, wealth, affluence, tourism, resources, landscaping. On the east; I’m not sure – but it’s not the same.

Chicago Skyline under fog from the Adler Planetarium

I headed over to the Museum Campus. This was as far south as I’d been in the 3 days and I was looking forward to looking back on the city from the Adler Planetarium – and if I got to see some exhibits, all the better. Little did I realise however, as I turned the corner under the overpass, the queues that awaited. I was literally stunned to see what looked like thousands queueing to get into the Shedd Aquarium. This wasn’t even 10:30am – I know it was the Sunday of Labour Day Weekend but still, this was phenomenal. And they all just stood there waiting to get in. If only the fish knew! I walked past the thronging masses to head out onto the breakwater to the Adler, and it looked like I was in with a shot of seeing some stuff here. Plenty of cars, but none of that manic queueing outside. I sat at the steps down to the shoreline walkway and looked at the city from this rare vantage point – rare because most cities don’t have such a viewing point back on themselves. After what seemed like sufficient time for the lactic acid in my leg muscles to completely seize them up, I climbed the steps and opened the door to the planetarium only to turn on my heels and head back into the city upon the sight of the crowds in what seemed like an impossibly small building.

At the Buckingham Fountain (I didn’t bother to find out who Buckingham was!)

I’d wanted to see Grant Park anyway – the site of that amazing night in 2008 when Barack Obama was declared the winner of the US Presidential Election I’d watched live in my apartment in Galway sobbing uncontrollably. Instead, I walked along the shoreline that straddles Grant Park and breathed in the lake air (you have to keep reminding yourself it’s a lake – despite it smelling like a sea!). I crossed the freeway in front of the Buckingham Fountain and headed on up to the AT&T plaza to that darned Cloud Gate that I keep being drawn back to. Along the way I walked through some of the street events being held for Jazz Week – all arranged in a safe and family-friendly environment in sunshine that finally peered from behind the clouds – which would later burn my Irish neck and forehead a bright pink!

After musing at the Cloud Gate (there’s something about it – it just draws you in) I headed up Michigan Avenue. I hadn’t eaten since my hotel breakfast of corn flakes and coffee and was thinking about either the Billy Goat Tavern underneath the Magnificent Mile, or Gino’s East (don’t criticise – I’m not local!). Passing the entrance underground to the tavern, I decided to keep going for pizza. Up through the swarming masses of people shopping and window shopping among the countless high-street boutiques, I knew I’d eventually come face-to-face with Ghirardelli’s again – having eaten a whole Hot Fudge Sundae at 11am the day before. I fought the urge however and inevitably went too far north. I crossed east toward La Salle and south to that crazy McDonalds restaurant, and around the corner to Gino’s East. On entering the restaurant I’d seen Adam Richman visit on the Travel Channel’s “Man Vs. Food” show, I joined the queue and took a menu. The unwelcoming prices however had me running away – $24 for a 4-slice pizza?! Insane. And besides, was it a 6″ or a 12″ ‘small’ pizza? Everything’s huge here. So instead I decided to take my chances elsewhere. Passing the queues outside Lou Malnati’s, I guessed from the groaning fans of wait times of more than an hour, that this was the more popular choice than Gino’s East. Nonetheless at this stage I’d been walking since 7am and was getting closer to the hotel holding my bags before heading to the airport and closer to the point where I’d collapse from exhaustion. I ducked into Cosí, a nice corner café restaurant and ordered a healthy sandwich and some tea (the first time I felt I needed some since landing on Friday!). Feeling better for all of this, I headed back to the hotel to get my bags and head underground to take the elevated train (if that makes sense!) to O’Hare.

I’d booked myself into the Hilton at the airport – for several reasons, chiefly among which was the notion I’d be dependant on shuttle busses on Labour Day morning to get me back to the airport to collect the rental car and also, weighing up the prices on Labour Day Weekend they all kinda ended up the same. Alighting the train underneath the hotel was a nice feeling after walking over 20km in the 27-degree heat. I checked in and went upstairs to shower and freshen up. Then the Hilton at the Airport’s “Shooting Fish In a Barrel” policies came to me. Everything (and I mean everything) was overpriced. Bottled water at $4 each. A salad in the hotel restaurant at $22. Room service salads running at $9 with an 18% gratuity and $5 service charge plus the expected tip on top. I went downstairs and grudgingly bought a turkey sub for $8 and made coffee in the bedroom. It’s not that I have a problem with making money, it’s extorsion that I object to. Yes you’re at the airport, but you shouldn’t feel as though every cent in your pocket should be handed over for basic facilities. Anyway, the ranting was done on TripAdvisor. That’s me for today folks!